We went directly to Naples this morning, the Capodimonte Museum. This is a palace filled with Renaissance art and baroque rooms. Naples was magnificent when the Spanish Bourbons ran the show. There are also amazing, baroque churches everywhere.
We got lessons on walking in this crazy city—walk determinedly in large, tight groups and stare down the drivers. The narrow streets, the graffiti, the wild scooters was all a little scary, and a fascinating contrast to the glory of the past.
We capped the evening at a folk music club with amazing musicians. Neapolitan music is not just O Sole Mio.